Guide sonore
Popular Keyboard Sounds: 51 Boards Matched to a Sound You Can Play
Every keyboard below is matched to one of TypeLouder's eight switch recordings. Press play on any of them to hear roughly what that board sounds like — no video, no download, no keyboard required.
There are two ways to find out what a keyboard sounds like before you buy it. You can watch a typing-sound video, where you are really hearing someone's microphone, room, and desk as much as the keyboard. Or you can play the switch recording directly and compare it against another one on the spot.
This page does the second thing. Below are 51 of the most widely owned keyboards in the world — Mac boards, office boards, mainstream mechanicals, customs, and gaming keyboards — each matched to one of TypeLouder's eight switch recordings. Every switch variant has a play button. Press it, and you will hear a short phrase typed on that kind of switch — and every keyboard links through to its own page, with what that specific board does to the sound and why.
It is worth using this the way you would use a switch tester: play two, then play them again back to back. A single keypress in isolation tells you almost nothing. The rhythm of a full phrase tells you nearly everything.
The eight sounds #
Every match on this page points at one of these. Play them in order once before you start — it takes about a minute, and afterwards the rest of the page will make sense immediately.
Le plus sec de la gamme — un clic net et reconnaissable entre tous à chaque appui. C'est le son que la plupart des gens ont en tête quand ils pensent « clavier mécanique », et celui que vos collègues remarqueront.
Lisse et linéaire, sans le moindre clic. Chaque appui se pose en un thock rond plutôt qu'en un claquement, ce qui en fait l'un des sons les plus faciles à supporter pendant des heures.
Un bump tactile doux, sans le clic sec — le juste milieu. Vous sentez la frappe dans le son sans qu'il traverse la pièce.
Le pack le plus grave et le plus feutré. Lourd, chargé en bas du spectre, proche d'un clavier bien amorti — l'option la plus discrète si vous travaillez dans un espace partagé.
Léger, cristallin et rapide — un linéaire clair avec une note aiguë qui claque à chaque appui. Pas de clic, pas de bump, juste un crépitement vif qui reste net à grande vitesse.
Un linéaire lisse et profond, aux angles arrondis. Les appuis se posent bas et régulièrement, plus proches d'un tambour feutré que d'un clic — un son calme pour les longues sessions.
Clair et net sans être clicky. Un linéaire fluide avec un clack froid et cristallin — plus léger que les packs thock, plus doux qu'un vrai clic.
Plein et rond, avec un clack satisfaisant au bottom-out. Le pack au son le plus moelleux de la série — profond comme un thock, mais avec plus de mordant.
If you would rather press your own keys than listen to a phrase, the labo sonore complet du clavier puts all eight on a keyboard you can type on.
How the matching works #
The recordings capture a switch family, not a specific keyboard. That is the honest way to do it, because the family is what dominates the sound:
- Clicky switches have a dedicated mechanism that snaps on the way down and again on the way up. Cherry MX Blue, Kailh Box White, Razer Green, Logitech GX Blue. Loud, high, and impossible to ignore.
- Tactile switches have a bump moulded into the stem, with no clicking part. Cherry MX Brown, HyperX Aqua, Razer Orange, Gateron Banana, Halo True. A rounded knock rather than a snap.
- Linéaire switches have nothing in the travel at all. Cherry MX Red and Black, Gateron Yellow, Corsair MLX. One sound per press instead of two, and the lowest of the three.
- Optical and magnetic switches are linears with the contact method changed. They sound crisp and even, with very little attack — which is why so many recent gaming boards sound smooth rather than clicky.
- Silent and dampened switches add rubber pads that absorb the top and bottom of the travel. Razer Yellow, Gateron Blush, Topre Type-S.
So a match here means "this keyboard is in this sound family, and this recording is the closest one of the eight." It does not mean the recording is of that exact board. Where a keyboard is sold with three different switches, you will see three buttons, because those three versions genuinely do not sound alike.
One practical warning: switch options move around between model years, regions, and retailers. A model sold with a Brown one year may ship with an in-house tactile the next. Check the actual listing before you buy on the strength of a match here.
Mac and office keyboards
Most of these are not mechanical at all — a scissor or membrane keyboard has no switch to record. The pack listed is the one that sits closest to what you already hear, which makes it the least jarring place to start before you go looking for something louder.
Apple Magic Keyboard
Shallow scissor travel with a bright, plasticky tap. There is no switch here, but the sound is high and quick rather than deep.
MacBook Air and MacBook Pro
The keyboard TypeLouder was built for. Quiet, clean, and shallow — every pack is an upgrade, and the linears blend in most naturally at first.
Logitech MX Keys and MX Keys S
Low-profile scissor keys with dished caps. Soft, damped, and deliberately unobtrusive.
Logitech MX Mechanical and MX Mechanical Mini
Kailh Choc V2 low profile with 3.2 mm of travel. Shorter travel makes all three variants sound tighter than their full-height namesakes.
Full Logitech MX Mechanical and MX Mechanical Mini sound page
Das Keyboard 4 and 6 Professional
Full-height Cherry MX in a heavy plastic case with no dampening. One of the loudest office keyboards you can legitimately buy.
Generic membrane office keyboard
The Dell, HP, or Lenovo board that came with the desk. Rubber dome under every key, so the sound is a dull thud with no snap to it.
Mainstream mechanical keyboards
The boards most people actually buy. Nearly all of them ship in a clicky, a tactile, and a linear version of the same keyboard, which is why one model can appear against three different packs.
Keychron K2
The keyboard that got most Mac users into mechanical boards. A 75% layout in a plastic or aluminium frame, with the switch chosen at checkout.
Keychron K8 and K8 Pro
The tenkeyless sibling of the K2, with the same switch choices and the same slightly hollow plastic case.
Keychron Q1 and Q1 Max
Gasket-mounted aluminium with foam inside. The case does more to the sound than the switch does — this is where the deep, expensive thock comes from.
Keychron V-series (V1, V3, V6)
The plastic-cased version of the Q-series. Still gasket-mounted and foamed, so it keeps most of the fuller sound at a third of the price.
Keychron Q1 HE
Gateron double-rail magnetic switches with adjustable actuation. Magnetic linears are exceptionally smooth and land with almost no attack.
NuPhy Air75
Gateron low-profile 3.0 in a slim gasket-mounted case. Short travel gives it a quick, light patter rather than a deep knock.
NuPhy Halo75
Full-height gasket mount with several layers of foam. Deliberately tuned for the low, rounded sound rather than the click.
NuPhy Air75 V3 Raycast Edition
The Raycast collaboration, and the only Air75 sold in one switch: the silenced Blush nano. A polycarbonate plate and dye-sub PBT push it lower than the standard V3.
Lofree Flow and Flow2
Kailh full-POM low-profile switches. POM housings are self-lubricating, which is why these are the smoothest-sounding low-profile boards around.
Royal Kludge RK61, RK84, and RK S98
The budget wireless boards that show up first on Amazon. Light plastic cases, so they sound thinner and higher than the price-matched competition.
Akko 5075B Plus and 3068
Akko's own Jelly, Cream, and Fairy switches in a gasket-mounted case with foam. Punches well above its price on sound.
Epomaker TH80 and Galaxy series
Hot-swappable budget boards that usually ship pre-lubed with a foam stack, aiming squarely at the fuller end of the sound range.
Anne Pro 2
The 60% that stayed popular long past its release. Gateron and Kailh Box options in a compact plastic shell.
Redragon K552 Kumara
The entry-level board a huge number of people started on. Outemu switches in a steel-plated case, which keeps it bright and rattly.
Enthusiast and custom keyboards
Boards bought for how they sound. At this end the switch is only part of the answer — mounting style, plate material, foam, and keycap plastic move the sound further than swapping Red for Brown ever will.
Ducky One 3
Genuine Cherry MX in a case Ducky lines with foam. The clearest way to hear what each Cherry switch actually sounds like on a modern board.
Ducky One 2 Mini
The 60% that defined the category for years. No foam anywhere, so it is the hollow, bright end of what Cherry MX can sound like.
Leopold FC660M and FC750R
Thick PBT caps and a dense case, with a reputation for sounding deeper than the switch inside would suggest.
Filco Majestouch 2
The plain, unfoamed Cherry MX reference board. Nothing inside is tuned, so you hear the switch and the empty case together.
Varmilo VA87M and Minilo
Cherry MX on most models, and Varmilo's own electrocapacitive switches on others. The EC boards sound noticeably rounder and quieter.
Glorious GMMK Pro
Gasket-mounted aluminium with real weight behind it. Most owners fill it with something other than the stock switch.
Glorious GMMK 2
The tray-mounted, plastic-cased GMMK. Same hot-swap idea as the Pro, without the gasket mount or the weight.
Drop CTRL and ALT
Tray-mounted aluminium with Halo switches, whose bump is far sharper than a Cherry MX Brown.
Drop Sense75
Drop's gasket-mounted board, and a different keyboard acoustically from the tray-mounted CTRL.
Monsgeek M1 and similar customs
Aluminium, gasket-mounted, foamed, and almost always built with lubed linears. This is the sound most keyboard build videos are chasing.
IBM Model M and Unicomp
Buckling spring, not a modern switch at all. Louder and lower than a Cherry MX Blue, with a spring twang no recording fully captures.
Topre Realforce R3 and R2
Electrocapacitive rubber domes over conical springs. The famous Topre thock is muted, deep, and completely unlike a Cherry switch.
HHKB Professional Hybrid Type-S
Topre with silencing added. The Type-S dampening removes the top and bottom knock and leaves a very soft, low press.
Gaming keyboards
Gaming boards have moved almost entirely to linear, optical, and magnetic switches, because those actuate faster and take the tactile event out of the way. The side effect is that most of them now sound smooth rather than clicky.
Razer BlackWidow V4 and V4 Pro
Razer's three switches map cleanly onto the three families. The Yellow has a built-in sound dampener, which is why it lands softer than a plain linear.
Razer Huntsman V3 Pro
Optical switches with an analogue travel readout. Light, fast, and glassy, with very little weight behind the press.
Razer Huntsman Mini
The 60% Huntsman, sold with clicky purple optical switches as well as linear reds. Compact, bright, and undamped.
Corsair K70 RGB Pro
One chassis, four different switch stories. Speed Silver actuates at 1.2 mm, so it sounds shallower and busier than the standard Red.
Corsair K70 Core
Corsair's in-house MLX Red linears in a closed, dampened case — the quieter and fuller end of the K70 line.
Corsair K100 RGB
Corsair's flagship, usually sold with OPX optical switches actuating at 1 mm. Fast, light, and bright.
Logitech G Pro X TKL
Hot-swappable GX switches in all three families, which makes this one of the easiest gaming boards to re-sound without replacing it.
Logitech G915 and G913 TKL
Low-profile GL switches with roughly half the travel of a full-height board. Everything lands faster and higher in pitch as a result.
Logitech G Pro X TKL Rapid
Logitech's magnetic analogue board with rapid trigger. Like all Hall-effect switches, it is a pure linear with nothing in the travel.
SteelSeries Apex Pro Gen 3
OmniPoint 3.0 HyperMagnetic switches with adjustable actuation and a dampened case. Deep and even, with no click anywhere in the press.
Wooting 60HE and 80HE
Lekker magnetic switches, the boards that made rapid trigger mainstream. Crisp and clean rather than heavy.
HyperX Alloy Origins and Origins Core
HyperX's own switches on an exposed aluminium plate, which leaves the sound bright with an audible ping on hard presses.
HyperX Alloy Rise
HyperX's gasket-mounted, foam-filled board — the opposite construction to the Alloy Origins, and a completely different sound.
ASUS ROG Azoth
Gasket-mounted, foam-filled, and pre-lubed — construction no other mainstream gaming brand was attempting at the time.
ASUS ROG Strix Scope II
ROG's conventional gaming board with in-house NX switches, dampened more than the exposed-plate competition.
Cooler Master CK720
Kailh Box switches in a gasket-mounted case — Cooler Master's move away from bare steel plates.
Cooler Master MK770
The wireless gasket-mounted 75%, with Kailh Box switches and a foam stack aimed at a fuller sound.
Roccat Vulcan II
Titan optical switches under low, exposed keycaps. Short travel and an open case make it one of the sharper-sounding gaming boards.
What the switch does not tell you #
If you take one thing from this page, make it this: past a certain point, the switch is not what you are hearing.
Two keyboards with identical Cherry MX Red switches can sound like different instruments. The variables that move the sound most, roughly in order:
- Mounting. A gasket-mounted board — the PCB suspended on soft strips instead of screwed to the case — is the single biggest reason modern keyboards sound deeper than boards from ten years ago. It is why a Keychron Q1 and a Filco with the same switch are not close.
- Case material and fill. An empty plastic case rings and sounds hollow. Aluminium with foam inside absorbs the ring and leaves the low end. This is most of what people are paying for in a $200 board.
- Keycaps. Thick PBT sounds lower and duller than thin ABS. Swapping keycaps is the cheapest real change you can make to how a keyboard sounds.
- Plate material. Brass and steel are bright and stiff. FR4, POM, and polycarbonate are softer and lower.
- Whether the switches are lubricated. Factory-lubed or hand-lubed switches lose most of the scratch and spring noise, which is why a $60 board with lubed linears can outrun a $200 board with dry ones.
- The switch itself, which is where most buying guides start and stop.
This ordering is also why a sound app works better than it has any right to. You are not simulating the mechanism — you are playing back a board that already has all six of those things going for it.
Browse by brand #
Every brand with more than one keyboard here also has a hub page collecting its models on one screen, which is usually the faster way in if you already know whose keyboard you own.
Can't find your keyboard? #
Skip the model and match the family instead. Look up which switch is in your board, then pick from this:
| If your switch is | It will sound like | Play |
|---|---|---|
| Blue, Box White, Green, Jade, buckling spring | Sharp, loud, two clicks per press | Frost Click |
| Brown, Aqua, Orange, Banana, Panda, Halo | Rounded knock, no click | Chestnut Bump |
| Red, Yellow, MLX, Outemu Red | Smooth, light, mid-depth thock | Ruby Thock |
| Black, heavy linears, Topre | Deep, muted, deliberate | Midnight Thock |
| Speed Silver, low-profile linears | Bright, shallow, quick | Alpine Pop |
| Silent Red, Blush, Type-S, magnetic | Soft and low, no attack | Onyx Glide |
| Optical linears, Lekker, ROG NX | Clean and glassy | Glacier Glide |
| Anything gasket-mounted, foamed, and lubed | Full, plush, with a clack | Cream Clack |
The four Cherry pages linked above go into much more detail on each switch, with the same recordings and the specifications side by side. There are also head-to-head pages if you are stuck between two, such as Blue vs Brown et Red vs Black.
Getting any of these on the keyboard you already own #
The honest limit of everything above: playing a recording tells you what a board sounds like, but you still have to go and buy the board.
Unless the sound was the point. A large share of people shopping for a mechanical keyboard are chasing the sound rather than the feel, and for them the answer is much cheaper. TypeLouder plays these same eight recordings on every keystroke across macOS, on whatever keyboard is already in front of you — a MacBook, a Magic Keyboard, an old office membrane board — at any volume, through speakers or privately through headphones.
It will not change how your keys feel. Nothing in software can. But if you have been watching keyboard sound videos at 2am, it is worth being clear with yourself about which half you are actually shopping for.
Related reading: how to make a Mac keyboard sound mechanical, a keyboard sound app versus an actual mechanical keyboard, et the best keyboard sounds for writing, coding, and focus.
Questions fréquentes
What does a Keychron K2 sound like?
It depends entirely on which switch you ordered. The Blue version is sharply clicky, the Brown and Banana versions give a rounded knock with no click, and the Red version is the smoothest and lowest of the three. The K2's plastic case adds a slightly hollow quality that the aluminium Q-series does not have. You can play a recording of all three families on this page.
Which mechanical keyboard is the loudest?
Among current keyboards, anything with a Cherry MX Blue, Kailh Box White, or Razer Green switch is the loudest, because those switches add a dedicated clicking mechanism on top of the keystroke. Buckling-spring boards such as the IBM Model M and Unicomp are louder still. The quietest are silenced Topre boards like the HHKB Type-S, and magnetic switches such as Wooting's Lekker or SteelSeries OmniPoint.
Do all mechanical keyboards sound the same with the same switch?
No, and the difference is bigger than most people expect. Two boards with identical Cherry MX Red switches can sound completely different depending on the case material, the mounting style, the plate, the keycap plastic, and whether there is foam inside. A gasket-mounted aluminium board with foam sounds deep and full; the same switch in an empty plastic case sounds thin and hollow.
Can I make my laptop keyboard sound like a mechanical keyboard?
Yes. TypeLouder plays a real switch recording on every keystroke system-wide on a Mac, so a MacBook, Magic Keyboard, or any membrane keyboard can produce the sound of a mechanical board while the keys themselves stay quiet. The eight packs on this page are the same recordings the app uses.
How do I choose a switch by sound instead of by name?
Ignore the colour names and pick the family. Clicky switches add a separate snap and are loud; tactile switches give a bump with no click and sit in the middle; linear switches have nothing in the travel and produce the roundest, lowest sound. Play a sample from each family here, then look for a keyboard sold with that family of switch.
Is a keyboard sound app the same as buying a mechanical keyboard?
It replaces the sound, not the feel. An app cannot change key travel, spring weight, or the tactile bump under your finger. What it can do is give you the sound at any volume you want, privately through headphones, on the keyboard you already own — which for a lot of people turns out to be the part they actually wanted.